Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Garden Clippings: February Gardening Tips



--By Pat Kriener, Village Interpreter and Master Gardener

February is for pruning! Sharpen those tools and give your yard a massive haircut by following the helpful tips in this month’s guide. Since you are in the pruning mood, don’t forget to remove dead trees, limbs and plants near the house to help "Firewise" your landscape for the upcoming wildfire season. For more information about Firewise Landscaping, wildfires and how to prevent them contact the Texas Forest Service.

  • Annuals – prune back any damage and deadhead to encourage new growth and flowering. We still have a few months that cool weather plants will thrive, but keep a look out for some of the hardier spring annuals to arrive. Dianthus, pansies, snapdragons and violas are some of the hardiest for winter.  Plant by seed into the ground alyssum, annual phlox, calendula, and nasturtium and stock.
 
  • Bulbs – Plant gladiolus now, and in mid to late Feb. plant caladium bulbs. If you find spring bulbs on sale at this time, remember they will not do well if planted so late; but if you come across some amaryllis or paper-whites that look good and haven’t started to sprout, snap those up and plant. Early Spring Bulbs are up & growing in the beds; watch for the early bloomers such as paper-whites and daffodils. Start planning for next month when it’s time to divide your summer bulbs.
 
  • Compost Bin – Throw all clipping, leaves, vegetable and garden waste in the compost. Top-dress all beds & trees with compost:  it’s a wonderful slow release fertilizer.
 
  • Container Plants – Prune and reshape evergreens, deadhead and trim back winter flowers to encourage new growth & blooms.
 
  • Fruits & Nuts- Prune Fruit trees now, plant B&B, bare root and container grown trees. Start looking for bush fruit: blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries and vine fruit (grapes & muscadines.For more information on Fruit & Nut growing in Texas, check out http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut
 
  • Greenhouse - Check all over-wintering plants for winter damage, disease, fungus and pests. During this time of year temperatures can fluctuate severely outside of the greenhouse, so make sure you keep a sharp eye on your temperatures and airflow inside the greenhouse. Start spring annual plants & vegetables by seed for planting in 6 to 8 weeks.
 
  • Herbs – Want an easy to grow landscape plant that mounds up to 2 feet tall and wide, drought tolerant, tolerates poor soil, full sun and blooms white?   Look no further than Mother of Thyme!
 
  • Lawn – Mow or cut back winter grass & weeds to keep them under control. Talk to your local garden center about additional ways to control them (hopefully organic!)  Don’t bag those leaves--mulch them for fertilizer or place in compost
 
  • Mulch now to protect your plants from the summer heat without getting heatstroke.
 
  • Perennials – At the end of Feb. or after we have had at least 2 hard freezes, prune back all dead material. This is still a great time to move them and to top dress with compost and mulch.
 
  • Problems - To learn more about plant diseases and pests, contact your local Extension Agent, Master Gardener or Garden Center.
   
  • Roses – Tea roses--prune on Valentines Day to about 15 inches tall. EarthKind Roses do not need pruning other than to remove dead or damaged limbs.  Top dress and mulch existing roses.
 
  • Tools – this is the time to do tune-ups on mowers, tillers, shredders, chainsaws and any other garden equipment. All hand tools need to be oiled and cleaned--especially your pruning equipment--to get ready for February pruning.
 
  • Trees – Prune back dead limbs and low hanging branches. Do not prune oaks unless it is around 30 degrees or above 100 degrees to keep Oak Wilt from spreading. Plant trees, trees and more trees
 
  • Vegetable Garden –Plan your Spring Garden NOW! Get your materials ready for seed propagation; seed mats, pots, soil and seeds. Start cool weather and spring seeds inside to be planted in 6 to 8 weeks. Plant transplants of beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, English & snow peas, Irish potatoes, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mustard, onion sets, shallot sets, spinach & turnips. Cleanup beds, add compost, and cover with mulch.  I am planting like crazyI have my seed potatoes cut and drying to harden off which is how my Dad always did it.  I also have to dust them with ash before I plant because that’s the way my husband's family planted potatoes. Sometimes gardening is simply remembering times past with family. 
 
  • Watering – Water in a 7-day cycle if we do not get any rain.
 
  • Wildlife In the Garden - Bats & bluebirds will be looking for spring homes soon so get those houses up now. If you don’t have a house already, go to the following websites and they can give you detailed instructions on how to make them. The best reason in the world to encourage bats & bluebirds to your yard is one little brown bat can eat 1000 mosquitoes in a night & bluebirds are simply ravenous for grasshoppers. www.Batcon.org  & www.texasbluebirdsociety.org.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Gardening Tips for January...



By Pat Kriener, Village interpreter and Master Gardener

Being a Texas gardener I always say January is for scheming and dreaming.  I spend several hours scheming with the following catalogs, magazines and books trying to make my garden dreams come true:




Wilhite seed www.wilhiteseed.com,

Native American seeds www.seedsource.com

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com

Womack Nursery www.womacknursery.com (great resource for berries and fruit trees)

Texas Garden Magazine www.TexasGardener.com

Organic Gardening Magazine www.organicgardening.com

Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew

Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening by Howard Garrett

Texas Fruit & Vegetable Gardening by Greg Grant

The Holistic Orchard by Michael Phillips & Chelsea Green



  • Annuals – Plant dianthus, pansies, snapdragons and violas are some of the hardest for winter.

 Plant by seed into the ground alyssum, annual phlox, calendula, and nasturtium and stock.

  • Bulbs – Plant tulips & hyacinths now. Forcing bulbs is always a favorite winter gardening project for paperwhites, amaryllis and calla lilies. If the stores still have the kits they should be on clearance sale but to create your own simply plant paperwhite bulbs in glass bowl or container filled with rocks to their shoulders. Just add water, keep in dim light until first green shows then place in bright light. Early Spring Bulbs are up & growing in the beds, watch for the early bloomers. 
 
  • Compost Bin – Throw all clipping, leaves, vegetable and garden waste in compost. Top-dress all beds &  trees with compost--it’s a wonderful slow release fertilizer
 
  • Container Plants – Searching for different container ideas? Grab a friend and go to antique shops, garage sales or search your own kitchen cabinets for items such as old stock pots, coffeepots, teapots, Jell-O-molds, bread pans, strainers, flour sifter, recycled vegetable cans, sugar bowls and cream pitchers. Worried about drainage? Add holes or layer the bottom with pebbles and organic charcoal.
 
  • Fruits & Nuts- plant bare root and container grown trees. Start looking for bush fruit: blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries. Vine fruits:  grapes & muscadines.  
 
  • Greenhouse – Cut heating costs by using black barrels or buckets filled with water to create solar heating in the greenhouse.  Put the buckets in the sun to absorb heat and the water inside will help hold the heat so the temperatures do not drop as rapidly. Keeping the lid closed will hold the heat in longer but open them if humidity is needed. Also they make it handy for quick watering. Time to seed propagate spring perennials, annuals and early spring vegetables. Check all over-wintering plants for winter damage, disease, fungus and pests. Watch temperatures and airflow.
 
  • Herbs - Being an herbalist and an avid gardener I want everyone to have herbs in their yard for the simple reason they are a multipurpose landscape plant. Next time you need a 5 ft. evergreen shrub think about using rosemary; many varieties bloom off & on all year, smell great and have many culinary and medicinal uses.
 
  • Lawn – Mow or cut back winter grass & weeds to keep them under control. Talk to your local garden center about additional ways to control them...hopefully organic! Don’t bag those leaves; mulch them for fertilizer or place in compost. 
 
  • Mulch - If you haven’t put new mulch down, pull existing mulch back and cover beds with newspaper (at least 12 sheets thick); cover with at least 3 inches of mulch.
 
  • Perennials – Now is a good time to move them. Mulch 2 to 3 in. deep, Deadhead but do not cut back until we have had at least 2 hard frosts.  If unsure when to cut back, just wait until February.
  • Problems - To learn more about plant diseases and pests contact your local Extension Agent, Master Gardener or Garden Center.
 
  • Roses - EarthKind Roses are still in the garden centers. Top dress and mulch existing roses. It’s also a good time to transplant roses if you need to move them.
   
  • Tools – this is the time to do tune-ups on mowers, tillers, shredders, chainsaws, and any other garden equipment. 
 
  • Trees - Fall & winter are the best time to plant trees. 
 
  • Vegetable Garden –Plan your Spring Garden NOW! Get your materials ready for seed propagation; seed mats, pots, soil and seeds. Start cool weather and spring seeds inside to be planted in 6 to 8 weeks. Plant transplants of beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, English & snow peas, Irish potatoes, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, mustard, onion sets, shallot sets, spinach & turnips. Cleanup beds, add compost, and cover with mulch.
 
  • Watering  - Watering your plants before an oncoming freeze is the best way to protect them. Water your lawn & plants on a 7-day watering cycle unless it rains.
 
  • Wildlife in the garden – Hummingbirds over-winter in Texas so please keep at least one feeder up. Great time to select sites for bluebird, bat and mason bee homes.
Enjoy this slow month for gardening

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

November Gardening Tips



--by historical interpreter and Master Gardener Pat Kriener

Did you enjoy our cold snap? Did you have your plants prepared for it? It came a little early this year but most of us who follow old plant lore started preparing at least 3 weeks ago: that’s when the Mexican Mint Marigold started blooming. According to plant lore, the Mexican Mint Marigold blooms within a few weeks of our first light frost. Usually this is in mid to late October, but seeing the Mexican Mint Marigold bloom jump-starts me into winterizing my garden. This is a wonderful culinary herb that has a licorice scent & taste and blooms in the spring & fall with small yellow marigold-like flowers.

  • Annuals for fall & winter - the hardiest are the pansies, violas, ornamental cabbage & kale.  Don’t overlook allysum, cyclamens, dianthus, English daisy, mums, primrose and stock even though they may die back if temperatures get below 25 degrees. Water well and cover if the temps drop. Check your garden center regularly for new arrivals. Plant in front of existing perennials where you can, so they will hide & shelter them as they die back.
  • Bulbs – Forcing Paperwhite Narcissus for blooming at Christmas takes 4 to 6 weeks from the time you plant until full bloom, depending on conditions. You can buy Forcing Bulbs Kits or plant bulbs in a glass bowl or container filled with rocks and water. Keep in dim light until first green shows, then put in bright light. Keep planting those spring bulbs.
  • Compost Bin – Throw all clippings, leaves, vegetable and garden waste in compost.  Top-dressing beds with compost is a wonderful slow release fertilizer.  For large composts, use a broom handle, piece of rebar, stick or shovel handle to make ventilation holes in the pile. Turning a compost pile is recommended by many experts, but there are also several who state ventilation works just as well. I would love to hear what you think.
  •  Container Plants – move tender plants inside this month or at least make space so they can be moved in quickly. Pots always come with visitors:  toads, ants or other bugs. Water heavily with the hose to get the toads out and then use orange oil solutions for the bugs:  follow the directions on the bottle. Winter pots--use winter annuals and hardy plants. When freezing temperatures are predicted, water and cover if needed. Make sure your pots have plenty of mulch.
  • Fruits & Nuts- plant B&B, bare root and container grown fruits peaches, apples, pears, blueberries, raspberries and strawberries. Strawberries need to be planted as early as possible to develop a good root system before it freezes (mulch heavily). Pecans & walnut trees can be planted this month. Existing plants:  mulch & top dress and remember to make sure they get watered.
  • Greenhouse – If you haven’t wrapped your greenhouse in plastic or cleaned out your glass green house, do it now! Take cuttings of any tender plants you want for spring. Make room for cold tender plants already in pots and plants you potted up last month.  This is the time to take cuttings of many of our woody plants such as rosemary. Winter annuals and vegetables – continue to propagate by seed and transplant all plants with true leaves but first harden them off a few hours every day  for 3 to 5 days outside before planting . Try an eco friendly way to heat your greenhouse using black buckets with water in them. They can have lids on them or not. I have hooked mine up to my sink so when I run water it goes into the bucket and I have the hose hooked up to the last barrel so I can use it for watering if need be.
  • Herbs - All of the evergreen herbs such as rosemary, thyme, parsley, oregano and others can be harvested all winter; if you do not have them in your garden plant them now. Grow tender herbs such as basil indoors or in the greenhouse. Use lavender cuttings in vases for a fresh scent, hang to let dry to create dried arrangements and wreaths or hang in closets for moth repellant.
  • Lawn –Don’t bag those leaves--mulch them for fertilizer, use them for mulch in your beds or create a compost pile. Overseed bare areas with rye-grass seed to avoid erosion.
  • Mulch – Check your mulch to see if you have at least 3 inches on your beds. This is a great time to get out there and mulch everything from your beds to your trees. Mulch will help protect them from our extremes in temperatures during this winter.
  • Plant for Fall Color – Trees – Shumard Oak & Texas Smoke Tree.  Shrubs – American Beautyberry & Holy, Possum haw.  Perennials – Mexican Bush Sage, Mexican Mint Marigold & Sedum, Autumn Joy.  Roses – Belinda’s Dream & Knock Out. Vines - Trumpet Vine & Virginia Creeper.  Fall Blooming Bulbs such as Autumn Crocus are planted in the spring.
  •  Perennials – Plant NOW! Get ready for the winter by mulching at least 2 to 3 inches. Deadhead but do not cut back until we have had at least 2 hard frosts.  Pot up tender ones to be easily moved into the house or greenhouse when the weather turns bad.
  • Rainwater -. Don’t forget to put out buckets to catch rainwater.  For more information on using rainwater wisely go to: http://twri.tamu.edu/newsletters/TexasWaterSavers/tws-v3n2.pdf
  • Roses – New stock of EarthKind Roses are showing up in the garden centers. Top dress and mulch existing roses. Stop deadheading to get rose hips for teas and jams for the upcoming winter. Climbers can be pruned back as soon as they stop blooming.
  • Vegetable Garden –. It’s time to plant Garlic! Other Vegetables to Plant: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, cucumbers, garlic, kohlrabi, lettuce, kale, mustard greens, radish, shallots, snap beans, spinach and Swiss chard. Always check “Days to harvest” on the package and usually our first hard frost is in Mid-Nov. Plant your broccoli, cabbage, collards and lettuce you started from seed last month. Cleanup beds, add compost, and cover with mulch. If you are not replanting plant a “green manure”--Vetch, crimson clover and oats are good choices.
  • Watering – If we do not get rain, a 7-day cycle is best for your plants but you may want to water earlier when we are going to have a sudden temperature drop and your plants are on the dry side. Watering will help insulate the plants from the cold. Make sure you keep the water off the plants by ground watering or if you have to use a sprinkler system that you water when there is no danger of your plants freezing. I know I have driven down streets and seen icicles hanging off plants just because the system is on a timer.
  • Wildflowers - Hurry!  Time is getting short to get those wildflowers planted for spring blooms

If you haven’t already winterized your gardens, do it now.

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Gardening tips for October...



--By Pat Kriener, Village historical interpreter and Master Gardener

I am sorry this month's article is so late, but it’s hard to tie me to the computer with so much fall decorating & gardening to do, clearance sales to haunt, fall events to enjoy and lectures to attend.. Every spring we rejoice in the first blooms of spring but for me fall has its own magic with the beautiful colors of autumn. Bringing these colors to your own landscape can be as easy as adding a few PLANTS FOR FALL COLOR.


  • Plant for Fall ColorTREES – Bald Cypress, Cedar Elm, Dogwood, Sycamore, Sweet Gum, Shumard Oak, Texas Smoke Tree.  SHRUBS– American Beauty berry, Possum haw Holly & Yaupon.  PERENNIALS– Mexican Bush Sage, Mexican Mint Marigold & Sedum, Autumn Joy.  Roses – Belinda’s Dream & Knock Out. VINES- Trumpet Vine & Virginia Creeper.  Fall Blooming Bulbs such as Autumn Crocus are planted in the spring.

  • Annuals – Plant now by hardiness. Hardy to Frost - Alyssum, Marigold, Petunia, Stock. Hardy to Freeze - Dianthus & Snapdragon. Hardy to Hard Freeze – Dusty miller, Flowering cabbage, Flowering Kale, pansy & Viola. Don’t forget pumpkins make wonderful planters. 

  •   Bulbs – It’s time to plant your favorite spring bulbs. Caladiums can be dug up once the leaves have fallen and look tired but before they are dead. Lay them out in a cool dry place to dry.

  • Compost Bin  – Spread compost, turn piles, Bins already full? Make a New Bin!

  • Containers with Fall Color – Use perennials & annuals recommended above with a mixture of shrubs such as Abelia, Beautyberry, American Holly, Indian Hawthorn, Mexican Orange, Yaupon Holly & Viburnum or evergreen arborvitaes. Use evergreen herbs for added scent and texture to your containers; Germander, Greek Oregano, Thyme and Rosemary. Don’t forget you can add any of these plants to your beds.

  • Herbs –Plant evergreen herbs in pots, beds or even as a hedge row, remove spent biannual and annual herbs, cut back perennial herbs, continue moving and dividing herbs, add compost to new plantings and top-dress existing plants, pot up tender plants such as basil to over-winter in the greenhouse or house for fresh basil all winter. Don’t forget to add mulch to help protect your herbs from the chill of winter. Plant indoor herb garden to enjoy all winter long. 

  • Fruit Trees- Remember to water your fruit trees even when they are not producing. An easy way to get those pears to ripen is to put them in a paper bag; lay the bag on its side so the pears are not stacked on top of each other.

  •  Greenhouse – If you cover your greenhouse in plastic for the winter, now is the time to pull out your supplies and see if you have enough or purchase more if needed. You will want to have your plastic up between mid-Oct and mid-Nov. Start taking cuttings of tender plants such as begonias, sweet potato vine, sedums, basil and others so you have will have stock for spring. Begin cleaning to make room for cold tender plants already in pots. Get your pots and your soil ready for any tender plants you need to dig up to winter-over. Continue planting seed for winter annuals and vegetables. Transplant all plants with true leaves, but first harden them off for 3 to 5 days.

  •  Houseplants – Start thinking about bringing your Outdoor House plants in. Check for pests on foliage and in soil. Soak your pots with water so the toads will vacate. Repot if needed, cut off all dead plant material, and give liquid seaweed to help with stress. 

  • Lawn – Lawn – It’s time to put down pre-emergent and fertilize for the fall. I use corn gluten meal with dried molasses, but ask your local garden center or extension agent to find the products that will work best for you. Leaves will be dropping soon; don’t bag those leaves use a mulching mower for FREE fertilizer & mulch.

  • Mulch – Texas gardener’s secret weapon is MULCH--Spring, Summer, Fall & Winter!

  • Perennials – Plant NOW! Haunt the clearance sales.

  • Problems – Molds, fungus, disease and an abundance of pests such as aphids, mealy bugs, scale and spider mites. To learn about your existing problems and what solutions are available contact your local Extension Agent, Master Gardener or Garden Center.

  • Roses – Mulch, fertilize, water during dry spells, deadhead and if you are an organic gardener collect rose hips for tea. Plant EarthKind Roses Now!

  • Trees – This is the best time to plant trees in Texas, so hit those clearance sales.

  • Vegetable Garden – Harvest snap beans, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and eggplant into November and early December. Vegetables to Plant: Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, cucumbers, garlic, kohlrabi, lettuce, kale, radish, shallots, snap beans and Swiss chard. Always check “Days to harvest” on the package and usually our first hard frost is in Mid-Nov. Plant your broccoli, cabbage, collards and lettuce you started from seed last month. Start a Strawberry Bed. Clean up beds, add compost, and cover with mulch. If you are not replanting, plant a “green manure”, a crop allowed to grow for a few months, but before it seeds it is tilled in to provide organic matter for the soil. Vetch, crimson clover and oats are good choices. Use cold frames and covers for warm-season crops, such as basil, tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers to extend your harvest in fall.

  • Watering – A 7-day watering schedule is good for your pocket book and your plants, but remember the best way to protect your plants from a sudden dip in temperatures is to have plenty of mulch & water the SOIL before the temperature takes a nose drive.

  • Rainwater Harvesting – We have not had frequent rain, but enough to keep my barrels from becoming dry or to resort to using tap water for the greenhouse or container plants.  Recently I connected a rain barrel and a simple ball float system (like in the toilet) to the chickens' water so it automatically fills from the rain barrel as the water level lowers. http://twri.tamu.edu/newsletters/TexasWaterSavers/tws-v3n2.pdf

  • Wildflowers – Plant Texas Native Wildflowers now--they are the best for our climate and ecosystem
 
  • Wildlife in the Garden – I am always encouraging wildlife into the garden but it does create challenges. I used to put out wildflower seed just to watch it become a birdie buffet, but several years ago I learned about a Native American planting method called Seed Balls. This is very simple to do, get some soil wet it to the consistency of mud pies of old, then mix your seed into your mud.  Roll into several balls about the size of golf balls. Let the balls dry for 2 to 3 days, and then toss them in the desired location. No bed prep, no raking...just toss and walk away. It is great fun for everyone but the birds.

Hope to see you at the clearance sales!

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

We're hiring!

Think you've got what it takes to come learn and work with us?  We are advertising for the position described below. If you are interested follow this link to the City of Fort Worth Jobs web site to apply. https://www.fortworthgov.org/hrappl/Job_Listing.asp  Just look for the Historical Interpreter position.

Thanks for your interest!



HISTORICAL INTERPRETER
PARKS AND COMMUNITY SERVICES – LOG CABIN VILLAGE
SALARY:  $10.59 HOURLY
ANN# S01-471
CLOSING DATE: October 31, 2012

APPLY ON-LINE ONLY

PART-TIME POSITIONS WITH NO BENEFITS
The position works approximately 29-34 hours per pay period (two weeks).  
  
Two schedule options:  
  • Every Tuesday 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. and every Saturday and Sunday 1:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. OR 
  • Tuesday and Friday 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. and every Saturday 1:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m.

High School Diploma or GED required and possess a working knowledge of 19TH century crafts.  Successful candidates must be able to display excellent interpersonal and communication skills in dealing with parents, children and other staff members.

The Log Cabin Village is looking for qualified candidates to serve as Historical Interpreter for the public.  This position provide programs for tourists and organized groups; provide historical information to visitors of all ages; demonstrates and produces 19TH century crafts; wear 19TH century historical attire at all times; assists Educator with family programs and maintains assigned cabin. 

WORKING CONDITIONS

Environmental Conditions:

Work outdoors and in historic buildings with no air conditioning or heat. A combination of heaters, electric fans, and wood stoves are used for climate control.

Physical Conditions: The position is responsible for cleaning (sweeping, dusting, and keeping viewing area glass clean) in assigned work area.

Monday, October 8, 2012